The Ghost of San Miguel Past

I spent the last two weeks in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, and I wondered: Does that old colonial town full of artists, great Mexican food, mercados, and USA ex-pats have any old ghosts?

Claro que sí.

 I asked one of our neighbors, a Mexico native who has lived ten years in San Miguel de Allende, and did she ever have a story to tell. It starts in on of the historic hotels in El Centro, which is basically the town square. This hotel goes way back into the time when the Spanish ruled the area. 

In this hotel, people kept losing items of clothing! The aristocracy staying there blamed the Maya who worked for them, but they Maya simply shook their heads and whispered. Finally, one of the young Spanish girls -- Carmelita -- who had befriended a young Maya girl asked, "What are you whispering about the missing clothes?"

"Aluxes," the Maya girl said. "They are stealing the clothes because they do not like the people."

"What is an Aluxes?"

"They are little people who live in the forest. Mostly they joke around, but, in this case, they are mad because the Maya are not getting enough food."

"How do you know that?"

"They whisper to us in the night."

Carmelita did not really believe this story, so she asked if she could spend the night with her friend and hear the Aluxes for herself.

It was agreed, because Carmelita was a very spoiled child and usually go to do whatever she wanted. It was fun to stay with the Maya family, as they were warm and funny, and not so strict as Carmelita's family. The girl meant to stay awake until the Aluxes appeared. But she and her friend snuggled into blankets on the floor, and after the warm meal of beans and squash, Carmelita fell instantly asleep. She dreamed off beautiful gowns and tiaras and as she went forward to try on one of the beautiful dresses, but just as she was ready to put it on, the dress was snatched away, and Carmelita was left standing naked. She awoke, and felt a cold wind on her chest. 

Carmelita opened her eyes. She saw a tiny figure holding the tip of her blanket, pulling it off her shoulders.

"No!" she called, but the creature continued. It was a girl, too, and she winked at Carmelita once the blanket was down to her waist. Then she hopped on the Spanish girl's chest, tickling her so that she laughed.

"What do you want?" she asked.

The little creature walked closer to Carmelita's face. And then, she ran to her shoulder an leaned into her ear.

"You must tell your mother that the Maya don't have enough food. Just as you were cold when you tried to wear the beautiful dress, the Maya are hungry when they prepare your food."

"Tell her yourself!" Carmelita did not think her mother would like the message.

But the Alux had disappeared and Carmelita was covered by her blanket again and warm. The next morning, she told her little friend about the visit.

"You must help us," he friend said.

So, Carmelita, spoiled and beloved, told her mother about the night time visit of the creature and her message. Her mother looked at her closely and then bushed Carmelita's hair from her face.

"I think you are a very observant little girl," she said.  And she gave her daughter a basket to fill with food for the Maya.

That's a nice story, I told my Mexican neighbor.

"Indeed. But watch out, now. For once you speak of the Aluxes, they will come to visit you with a message."

Little did I know, that very thing would happen in two days. I'll write about it in my next post.

And that's why it's mysterious in New Mexico (and Mexico, too!)